Greetings from the dark forests of Finland! I’m Ludwig, and this is my blog about electronics, vintage audio and miscellaneous projects I do on my spare time. People seem to find this sort of stuff interesting, so it’s a shame not to share.
I make no profit off of running this blog. All material published is licensed under the Creative Commons directives for attribution and free non-profit use (CC-BY-NC), unless otherwise specified. That means that you may do whatever you wish with it as long as you don’t take credit for, or make money off of my work.
Enjoy!
FF's electronics 
❤ FF!! I'm enjoying your blog posts. 🙂
I’m glad to hear it. Do subscribe, critique and spread the word!
Thanks for that great info on Y-SUS problem in your last post.
I’ve got into fixing the colored dots problem on my Hitachi 42PMA300s plasma which uses LG 42v6 but had no luck with it. After replacing all 33, 100 and 220 uF SMD capacitors with new (and higher voltage) ones something just cracked and the screen went black. At this moment I still didn’t figured out what went wrong but now I’m thinking it may be best to order a new Y SUS board and replace it. I’m looking at the offer for that board on flattvparts.co.uk and it seems that they don’t have boards from Hitachi’s plasma but have ones from Goodmans and Matsui. Do you think that one of those could work or should I expect some extra tunning with those. I mean, they are al 42V6 boards from LG. Could there be any difference?
Looking forward to that next article on 42V6 you’ve announced.
I wouldn’t be surprised if the crack was the IPM of your Y-SUS board failing.
I haven’t personally had much time to tinker with 42V6 plasmas, by far not as much as with 42V5 units, anyhow (I’m in the (somewhat slow) process of gathering material and information about them). I would suspect that the Y-SUS boards are interchangeable as long as the part number (save the last letter, it seems to only indicate revision number) of the boards is the same. For instance, the part n/o of the 42V5 Y-SUS board is 6870YE007E, where the last E indicates the revision. I know that rev. E and rev. H of these boards are 100% interchangeable, with the only major differences being reliability improvements (bigger caps, etc.)
If there’s anything else you’d like to know, I’ll gladly help further.
Hello This is Robert from Denmark and I really like the P2200 rebuild pictures
there very helpful, if you want I sometimes get a dead Yamaha for parts I can send a new power switch to you, 🙂 thank you Robert
I’m glad you liked the pictures!
If you can get a power switch in good condition, I’d gladly take it off your hands. However, I don’t think I can justify spending more than postage money on it; my current, ugly fix does its job well enough.
Thank you,
Ludwig
I enjoyed your Lepai LP-2020A+ mini-review. I have a question for you. I’m building a 12v battery powered mini pa system and I am trying to use the Lepai LP-2020A along with this kemo pre amp http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=320-555.
The problem I’m having is when someone raising there voice into the mic or slaps on a bass guitar string. The speakers will make the a never ending thump thump thump, that can not be stopped until the lepai is turning off and on again. Any ideas? Do I need input resistors? One thing you shoild no is that I’m playing a mono mic from into both channels of the amp.
I’d bet that your power supply is too weak or that the power cable for the Lepai is too thin.
Hi Ludwig,
I would love to buy your meter distortion HP339A …
How much is your unit?
Send to Brazil?
I really need one of these …
If you can not sell it, would have some in excellent condition to indicate for me to buy?
thank you…
My unit is not for sale, and even if it were, I’m afraid that shipping to Brazil would be extremely uneconomical.
Even if it costs 100 euros – shippping, would still be good for me!
The unit is not for sale.
Hello Ludwig, I really find you blog impressive. I would like to kindly seek your advice on one of the devices on your blog. I need urgently a 42″IPM (Witout pass)_V6. like the one you showed on your blog. Can you supply me with one or just direct me where I can buy it from?
I look forward to receiving your assistance.
I do not sell these units, however I source most of my parts on Ebay.
Thanks, I will try to find it on Ebay
Hello i very Much Enjoy your Blog and thanks for all the info
Can i ask a maybe stupid Qustion `?
I am i greenhorn audiofile who it in a bit of a delmia
on the yamaha PC2002 the output trasistiors
can you tell in what order they go in? i am a bit lost
hi
got here thru AK, searching info about Luxman M120-A. you seem very fond of it. did you post something about it ?
keep on groovin’
That’s a good idea, I’ve got some old material lying about regarding it (including how I almost blew the outputs by using the wrong kind of thermal paste). However, I’ve had no time for blogging, the last few months, so it might take me a while to get to it. Thanks for the suggestion!
I love your blog my friend, and in many ways I love you as well (in a non-gay way)
I would love to talk with you in private, if you use skype, please add me it’s the same as my email address without the @gmail.com, or alternatively you could email me your skype contact.
While I don’t share you intense interest in electornics, my forte is computer programming. You can find some of my work on one of my youtube channels:
https://www.youtube.com/user/MrPattern
I have written some audio software, for example; http://borg.coy.cat
I hope this makes me eligible to get to know you.
Dear, great webiste. May you help me find parts for AKAI GX75 – i need AKAI GX75 SP TORSION IDLER ( part no. ZG-336140)
I have a Yamaha P-2200 that has 75 VDC present on the output. I have replaced T109 , T110, and T111. No change. Output transistors check out OK. Not sure where else to look.
Thanks